The Healing Springs of Trifilisco

Written By Gina Glorioso

Springs of Trifilisco

Just a few minutes down the road, still within the boundaries of Bellona, we visited one of the most spiritual and transformative places I’ve ever experienced.  We almost skipped it, the day had been really difficult traveling from Santo Stefano and already having visited Rionero, the Abbey, and Bellona we were tired and feeling ready to get to our next place in Naples.   I was worried it would be difficult to find after our adventures getting to the Abbey and suggested we just drive by and see if it was easy.  I’m so glad we did. 

Trifilisco comes from the Latin “inter fiscula” meaning “between waterways”.  The area is full of natural springs coming from the limestone mountains making the water crystal clear and rich in CO2 and other minerals.  The springs flow through the city creating a small canal and the water is available for drinking through fountains springing from the rocks.  This healing water has been sought after and revered for thousands of years including by an ancient cult in the area dedicated to the healing waters.  The water was believed to cure a whole host of issues including kidney problems, rheumatic pain, and blood diseases.

Water pouring from the rocks

One of the first known mentions of the spring was by Pliny the Elder in his Natural Histories.  He was known to visit baths located at the fountains and refered to them as the medicinal water near the temple of Diana Tifatina (a local version of the goddess Diana.  The addition of Tifatina refers to the mountain group full of big oak trees in the area - like saying Diana of the Woods). 

The temple to Diana Tifatina still stands, now as the Basilica Sant’Angelo in Formis.  It’s unknown how old the temple is, but some believe it was erected around the time of the Punic Wars, others think it may be even older.  Either way they believe it was constructed by the end of the 4th c BCE.  The foundation and mosaic floors are original (complete with an inscription near the entrance saying, “Templum Dianae Tifatinae”) while much of the basilica has been changed.  It’s believed the changes to reimagine the temple as Christian happened around 1000 CE when it was given to a local monastery.  Frescos were added depicting scenes from the Bible, as well as structural additions like a portico.

Basilica Sant’Angelo in Formis - photo credit: ReggiadiCasserta.com

During the Middle Ages the fountains were used for practical agricultural purposes and watermills were added to process the area’s grain.  Many of these watermills remained in operation for centuries, the last ones closing in the 1960s.  In the 19th c large boilers were added to heat up the water and create hot baths.  Hotels and spas popped up but due to mismanagement eventually were abandoned.  Today the springs have small businesses around them but the area is quiet and quaint and the springs are easily accessed.

Canal through Trifilisco

Mobility and Experiencing the Springs

I had been concerned about finding the fountains, but they are very visible from the road.  We were able to park across the street and walk over to the springs.  It is not wheelchair accessible, I did need to use my crutches, but the area is open and relatively flat and step-like to walk on.  When you first walk down there are large flat rocks that give access to the drinking water which springs right from the wall out of fountains that have become built up and calcified due to centuries of the rich mineral water pouring out. Some of the fountains have even closed over time.

Calcified fountain

As you step down further there is a walkway that has been constructed through the center of the canal.  We were able to sit and dip our feet in the water.  I honestly have to say it was the most refreshing and healing time.  We had been so stressed about timing and getting in and out of all the places we were visiting.  Once we paused and put our feet in the water I felt like time just stopped and was overcome with such a sense of peace and calm.  The water was crystal clear and felt so crisp and light, it felt like pain was lifting off of my body.  We had only intended to stay for a few minutes, but I think every one of us felt the draw to that place.  We put our feet in the water, talked to the ducks, drank from the springs, and eventually continued our journey refreshed and renewed. 

Behind, you can see the steps down to the walkway

Gina Glorioso
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